Is There Such a Thing as Shade Grown Cacao?

September 2, 2009

Shade grown coffee has received a lot of attention from coffee enthusiasts and environmental advocates. The arguments are that shade grown coffee produces a higher quality product, provides sanctuary for birds and wildlife, and is more environmentally friendly. But what about the world of chocolate - is there such a thing as shade grown cacao?

This very question came in over the website recently from a Taza fan. Heather B writes: "I wanted to know if the [cacao] trees are planted in the sun or if they are strictly shade-grown?"

Great question Heather - but first, a little background. Chocolate is made from cacao beans, which are not beans at all but rather the seeds of the Theobroma Cacao plant. Cacao trees, like coffee (Coffea Arabica), are understory plants that thrive under the partial shade of a forest canopy.

Like coffee growers, cacao farmers can cultivate their crop in a variety of ways. Some farmers choose to grow their cacao or coffee in large monocultures under direct sun. They do this for ease of cultivation and harvest, and in an attempt to increase yield. However, the lack of biodiversity and unfavorable climatic conditions can introduce serious quality, plant health, and environmental issues. For example, chemical pesticides are often applied and aggressive irrigation undertaken in order to keep the plants in this growing situation healthy and yields high.

The situation is different in the case of shade grown cacao. Cacao benefits from a high level of biodiversity found in canopy ecosystems. High biodiversity has been shown to help keep damaging pests and fungal blights under control. And while cacao grown under shade in its natural habitat may produce fewer pods per tree, the quality of the cacao is usually superior.

Organic cacao, like the single origin, organic Dominican cacao we use in Taza Chocolate, is particularly susceptible to disease because the growers are not permitted to use chemical pesticides. Instead, the growers use organic pest-control techniques like interplanting, where cacao plantations are studded with palm, mango, and passionfruit. These trees space out the cacao, slowing the spread of disease should it occur. Biodiversity also encourages certain beneficial organisms like birds and insects to make their homes among the cacao.

The bottom line is that while "shade grown" is a good indicator in both coffee and cacao of a high quality, sustainable product, it is not the only indicator. We encourage you to reach out to the people who grow and make your food and ask questions like Heather's.